Leading a quiet revolution is East London, with its warren of secret restaurants: hush-hush little places tucked away in former garages or dark industrial corners, in areas that 20 years ago you wouldn’t have walked during the day, let alone at night. The most unassuming streets hold hidden gems – Primeur on Petherton Road in Stoke Newington is one of the best and most difficult to find (and book, for that matter). Ellory, in creative hotspot Netil House in London Fields, has just earned a Michelin star, and Pidgin on Hackney’s Wilton Way is making waves with its no-choice set menu. Meanwhile, on Dalston’s less-than-desirable Gillett Square, Pond is the kind of buzzy place you pop into for a quick drink on your way somewhere more desirable and end up staying for the Hawaiian poké and ‘night out’ soundtrack.

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